Masala Chai
Known is the U.S. simply as “chai,” masala chai is a spiced, sweetened black tea with milk. It originated in India (“masala chai” is Hindi for “spice tea”), but is served around the world in countless variations on a theme. If you’ve only had premade masala chai or masala chai mixed from syrup, then you haven’t had real masala chai. Read on for masala chai’s history, the chai culture of India, and what makes masala chai. Next week, I’ll cover how to make masala chai and give you over a dozen of my very own masala chai recipes, just in time for cold weather.
Masala Chai History
Masala chai dates back to over 5000 years ago (some say 9000), when a king created an herbal version in an Indian or Siamese court (or so the legend goes… I’m fairly sure that this is a myth, much like the Chinese tale of Emperor Shen Nong’s discovery of tea). It was an Ayurvedic concoction from the start and was considered to be a cleansing and vivifying remedy for minor ailments. Early on, masala chai was prepared in a variety of ways, served both hot and cold, and comprised of a wide range of spices. Recipes varied from town to town, neighborhood to neighborhood, and even home to home.* Many years later (in 1835), the British set up tea plantations in Assam. The black teas produced there seeped into masala chai recipes, and masala chai as we know it today (tea, sweetener, milk, and spices) was born. It didn’t approach its current popularity level until the advent of CTC (Cut, Tear, Curl) mechanized tea production in Assam the 1960. CTC produces very inexpensive tea that infuses quickly and produces a strong flavor, making it perfect for masala chai in the Indian market. Chai’s popularity spread ‘round the globe, but it remains a key element of Indian culture today.
Masala Chai in Indian Culture
Masala chai is a major component of Indian culture today, but it is ingrained in everyday life much like coffee in the U.S. The result is that outsiders see it as a big deal, while locals think of it as ordinary. (This reminds me of the time I made hummus for a friend from Tokyo and changed her whole worldview. To me, hummus is a common food, but to her, trying it the first time was a revelation.) Most people in India drink about four cups of masala chai a day. Many many take a break around 4PM for chai and snacks, usually fried samosas and/or pakoras, “farsan” (savory snacks from West India’s Gujarat region), and “nashta” (savory breakfast foods). There is a “family tradition” element to masala chai in India and neighboring chai-drinking countries. Much like that incredible recipe for… whatever… that your grandmother gave you and that you KNOW tops any other variation out there, people in and around India take great pride in their own recipes and feel that theirs is the only REAL way to prepare masala chai. It is served to family and guests in the home, where homemakers (or “domestic engineers” as they are called in Indian PC-lingo) spend a great deal of time preparing it, and in public places such as on trains and in the streets. (Train and street chai can be found in most parts of southern India, but it is much more prevalent in northwestern and north-central India.) Chai vendors (known as “chai wallahs,” which translates literally to “tea persons”) prepare their tea over an open fire in small stands and stalls. In addition to making and selling tea, they also serve up local gossip and sweet snacks. (Think “tea barista.”) They typically serve the tea hot in small clay teacups called “chullarhs” (also spelled “kullarhs”), which they bisque fire themselves over an open flame. These cups are thrown on to the ground and shattered when the cup is emptied, and they shortly return to the earth from which they came. (Instant recycling!) In between serving customers, chai wallahs call out to the public in typical vendor fashion. (“Hothothothot chai! Garam garam chai! You like chai, madam?” That kind of thing.) Personally, I find that the call of the chai wallah is an integral part of the Indian soundscape. Then again, that may be because it elicited such a strong Pavlovian response from me during my visit! Let’s talk about the secrets that make this drink so deliciously addictive…
What Makes Masala Chai?
Though the variations on masala chai seem infinite, there are basic components that separate masala chai from other types of drinks. Masala chai contains the following ingredients of variants thereof: black tea, milk, spices, and sugar.
The black tea is usually Assam CTC, but it may be replaced by other black teas, green tea (often gunpowder green, as is the case with Kashmiri chai) or even with botanicals (often rooibos or yerba mate). Common black teas used to replace Assam CTC are: Assam full-leaf (which has a robust but somewhat less astringent taste than Assam CTC), full-bodied Ceylon black teas (which range widely in flavor, but are generally astringent and aromatic), Kenyan black teas (robust, but less malty than Assam), Darjeeling Autumnal Flush (which is less robust and malty than Assam, but still full-bodied and flavorful), Nilgiri (best iced or with milder spices, as it has a more mellow flavor and perfumy fragrance), and Keemun (a full-bodied tea from China with fruit, chocolate or smoke notes).
The milk is usually whole, but it may be replaced with half and half, lighter-fat milk, goat milk, buffalo milk, yak milk, or dairy alternatives. (While I generally love soymilk, it tends to taste funny in masala chai. For dairy alternatives, I suggest rice milk or, for something richer, oat or almond milk.) The type of “milk” you use, the proportion of milk to water (typically between 1:4 and 3:2), and the amount of time the milk is over heat will determine how creamy the final concoction is. For extra richness, some people top their hot or cold chai with whipped cream. For a cold chai, you can also blend in ice cream or soy ice cream. Yum!
The spices vary by region and preference, but they typically include a combination of the following: cinnamon, cardamom** (most flavorful when crushed just before use), cloves (best when whole, but powdered works too), ginger (best when fresh), and peppercorns (black, white, or green). They may also include: ajwain (a bitter Indian digestive spice that tastes like strong thyme or caraway), allspice***, bay leaves, coriander**/***, chocolate (in the form of unsweetened dark cocoa powder; this is a Western addition), cumin**/***, fennel**/**** (also known as “sonf,” “soanph,” and other variants in some recipes; should be green; may be ground if desired), lemongrass (fresh is best), licorice root (fresh or dried, as in herbal teabags), mace****, nutmeg****, saffron, star anise, tamarind (fresh or powdered), vanilla beans (or, less preferentially, pure vanilla extract; also a Western addition), and/or white poppy seeds** (a.k.a. “khas-khas;” may be replaced with Western poppy seeds).
In India, the added sugar in masala chai usually comes in the form of jaggery (an unrefined cane sugar from crushed sugar cane stalks, sold in chunks, similar in flavor to molasses, and naturally high in iron) or the more expensive gur (sap from palm trees like date and coconut, used mostly in eastern and southern India). The colors of these richly flavorful and “wholesome” (comparatively, anyway) natural sweeteners range from golden brown to dark brown and the consistency ranges from semi-soft to hard. Unfortunately, they are not easy to find in the U.S. However, molasses sugar and turbinado (unprocessed) sugar come close. Some people use white sugar, but it is lacking in the flavor of other sweeteners. Honey makes a more complex brew. Orange blossom, clover, and Tupelo varieties are all excellent choices. A less common (but decadently delicious) approach is to kill two birds with one stone by using sweetened condensed milk for a milky caramel flavor. Yum!
Now you know the secrets of masala chai’s contents. Next week, I’ll cover to how to put them all together with an overview of various preparation methods and 16 of my masala chai recipes, including “Thick and Strong Basic Masala Chai,” “Floral Green Chai,” “Frilly Tearoom Chai,” “Fusion Tearoom Chai,” “Garam Masala Chai,” and “Yummy Chai Milkshake.” Check back then to learn more about your new favorite tea variation!
*This kind of variation persisted, especially as masala chai spread to Nepal, Pakistan and Tibet, and then, re-dubbed “chai,” traveled to the rest of the world.
**These spices should be roasted for optimal flavor.
***These spices should be ground for optimal flavor.
****These spices should be added at the last minute for the best flavor. (They either lose flavor or overpower other flavors when left on the heat too long.)